Process for the production of embroideries.



J. GROETSGHEL.

PROCESS POR THE PRODUCTION 0F EMBROIDERIES.

APPLIOATION'FILBD PEB. 4, 1913.

Patented July 15, 1913.

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JULIUS GROETSCHEL, OAF PLAUEN, GERMANY.

PROCESS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF EMBROIDERIES.

To all Lv/2,0m t may concern.'

Be it known that I, JULrUs GRon'rsoI-rnr., a subject of the German Emperor, residing at Plauen, in Vogtland, in the Kingdom of Saxony, Germany, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Process-es for the Production of Embroideries, of which the following is a speciiication.

The invention has reference to an improved process for the production of discharge embroideries.

Before I commence to describe wherein the improvement discovered by me consists, I will first of all state that, for many years past, it has been known to produce a piece of embroidery from different kinds of yarn or thread (hereinafter called thread), and then the said embroidery was submitted to a process of the type known in the textile industry as the discharging-process. If, for instance, there be selected as the background for embroidery some backing of animal fibers, such as wool, and if there be selected for embroidering some threads made from plant fibers, such as cotton, then by immersing the piece of embroidery when completed in some caustic lye all the animal bers can be destroyed and only the vegetable fibers will remain. This is merely one single example. There are also other well-known methods of producing such discharge embroideries.

For my invention only such embroideries come into question as can be produced upon a 'shuttle embroidering machine. To facilitate the comprehension of the description given below I will assume that it is necessary, or at least highly desirable, touse such a shuttle embroidering machine for the employment of the new process as is provided on the front face of the embroidery with two rows of needles and on the rear surface thereof with two or three rows of shuttles so that, according as may be required or as may be necessary, one row of needles can be withdrawn into the inoperative position the work being done with the other row of needles. The one row of needles must be provided with dischargeable, and the other row of needles with nondischargeable, threads. In the same way the rows of shuttles must be iilled wit-h threads of varying dischargeable nature. Under these assumptions it is possible to selec-t a number of diiferent thread combinations. For instance the embroidery can be done Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed February 4, 1913.

Patented July 15, 1913.

SeriaI No. 746,184.

with a non-dischargeable needle thread and a non-dischargeable shuttle thread, or another time with a dischargeable needle thread and a non-dischargeable shuttle thread, and a third time with a non-dischargeable needle thread and a discha'rgeable shuttle thread. All these combinations can be carried out by embroidering upon a backing of dischargeable material, or again by embroidering on a background of non-dischargeable material, or again in the third instance by embroidering at the beginning upon a disclhargeable background while, first when the embroidery is only half completed, a non-dischargeable background is spread over and fastened upon the half completed embroidery whereupon the said piece of embroidery is then finished upon this double background. In this way I am enabled to produce such beautiful embroideries that they not only cause astonishment, but also charm the spectator, by their novel attractiveness and by the numerous combinative possibilities.

Then I speak in this description of dischargeable and non-dischargeable textile fibers, I desire that the meaning of these terms be taken with a certain restriction. In `reality there are no chemical mordants of suoli a nature that they will only destroy an animal fiber while leaving a vegetable fiber quite unmolested, or else destroy only the vegetable iibers while the animal fibers remain unchanged. On the contrary the truth is rather as follows :If an animal and a vegetable fiber be left long enough in a mordant lye then both of them will be dcstroyed. However in practice, as is woll known, there are used for this purpose such mordants which will destroy the one kind of fiber quickly, and the other more slowly. If, therefore, the mordant be allowed to act upon the finished embroidery only for a short time, then that will suffice to destroy the one class of fiber without the other being affected to any appreciable extent. Therefore when I speak in my description of dischargeable and non-dischargeable material, that is done merely for the sake of brevity. The attentive reader will imagine to himself such materials as can be destroyed by a mordant with greater or lesser ease.

The accompanying drawing illustrates my invention, given by way of an example. All the six figures of the drawing are diagrammatic in character, and are only to be understood in such a sense as that they serve the individual elements of a perhaps very voluminous embroidery consisting of many pattern elements. All the figures are, for the sake of clearncss, drawn to a much larger scale than the embroidery itself.

Figure 1 of the drawing, shows the front, and Fig. 2, shows the back of embroidery on a non-dischargeable material. Fig. 3, shows stitches madewith a non-dischargeable needle thread along certain lines. Fig. et, shows the stitching effected with the same threads in Fig. 3, but in a different direction, Fig. 5 illustrates a variation in the work, explained fully hereinafter. Fig. 6, is a cross section through the embroidery after the discharge-able threads have disappeared.

The method of employment shown in Figs. 1 to G, by way of example, assumes that the material (g, h, t', liz) upon which the embroidery is to be done, consists ofy a nondischargeable material. Fig. 1 is the front, and Fig. 2 the back thereof.

First phase Fig. 3: Stitches are made with a non-dischargeable needle thread and a dischargeable shuttle thread along the lines' (1, 2, 3, 1t, 5, G, 7).

Second phase Fig. a: The stitching is now eifected with the same threads in a direction transverse to the line (S, 9, 10), etc., up to (17).

The object of these two phases is to produce, by a maze of crossing threads, a kind of embossed cushion. This cushion can be brought up to any height desired by repeating the two phases (7) and (8) several times.

Third phase Fig. 5: The shuttle threads, which are non-dischargeable for this third phase, must be changed, but the needle thread remains the same; that is to say it is also non-dischargeable. The zigzag lines shown in Fig. are now stitched. In doing this, however, special care must be taken that the shuttle rows be changed for each stitch; that is to say, for instance, the points (1S-20) are stitched or embroidered with the one shuttle, but the points (19, 21) are made with the other shuttle. Both shuttles, however, must have non-dischargeable threads. The points (1S, 19, 20, 21) are also shown in F 2. IVhy thisnew type of arrangement must be made, will be immediately understood when I point out that the object. of this process is to make the rear side of the embroidery as smooth as possible, that is to say without threads. If, namely, the shuttles were not changed in this third phase but-as in the processes hitherto known-were allowed to work at the back with only one shuttle, then there would be produced upon the rear side eX- actly the same zigzag figure as is shown in Fig. 5. As, however, this shuttle thread is non-dischargeable then it would not be destroyed by the subsequent mordant process, and would also produce a cushion at the back in the same way as on the front side. This is precisely that which it is intended to avoid as an embroidery, possessing relief-likeportions at the back, can never be so tine and uniformV as piecek of embroidery which is perfectly smoothv at the back; on

the contrary itl will display creases and elevations.- The last phaseFig. G permits this to be clearly seen. Fig. 6, namely, is a cross section through the embroidery. The material (g-f) is shown excessively thick, in order that what I am going to explain may be clearly seen. All the dischargeable threads have disappearedy in Fig. G. (7) represents those threads which are to be seen in Fig.- 3; Over these lie the threads (8) which correspond to Fig. 4C. Then there followsagain a group of threads (7), and then again the threads Right at the top in Fig. 6 there'may be seen the threads (9), which are held fast at the back by the threads (18, 19). In the diagrammatic representation shown in Fig. t3` the stitches (18, 19) stand out strikingly from the mae terial (gni). In reality they would scarcely be noticed, and the rear surface is perfectly smooth. Inv this connection it is worthy of remark that the threads (7, 8) in Fig. G have no connection with the material (Q owing.y to the destruction' of the shuttle threads. They lie in the shape of a tangle of threads, loosely upon the upper surface of the embroidery and are held fast by the threads.

What I claim and desire to secure by Lety JULIUS GROETSCI-IEL.

)Witnesses JOSEPH MHLS, ROBERT H'. Ninn'.

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